The Ultimate Guide to Drawing Perfect Pleats and Tucks

Drawing pleats and tucks are actually quite easy to do. In the video above, we’re diving into the world of fabric folds, uncovering the difference between tucks and pleats. And you’ll also practice alongside me throughout the video so that you can draw an array of tucks and pleats.

First things first, let’s define our terms. A tuck is a simple fold in fabric, creating a neat and subtle ridge that is fully stitched together. 

On the other hand, pleats tend to be deeper folds and are often not stitched in place, except for where the fold is located. The part after the fold is unstitched, which creates fullness. In some cases, you may have a pleat that is stitched down partially, but the other section has no stitching, allowing fullness for the shapes of the body or silhouette.

Flipping through the pages of The Fashion Design Book, you can see the distinction between tucks and pleats. There are several types of pleats that add unique textures and styles to garments. 

First we have the accordion pleats. These are narrow, evenly-spaced pleats that resemble the folds of an accordion. Accordion pleats are often used in skirts and dresses for a chic and structured look.

Next, we have box pleats. These create a more substantial fold by folding fabric in opposite directions, forming a box-like structure. They are commonly found in skirts, trousers, and sleeves, providing a tailored appearance.

Another type of pleat is the knife pleat. Knife pleats are sharp, narrow folds that run in one direction. Typically used in lightweight fabrics, knife pleats add a tailored and sophisticated touch to garments.

The terms “cartridge pleats” and “rolled pleats” are sometimes used interchangeably, leading to confusion. However, it’s important to note that they are not entirely synonymous. Let’s clarify the distinction between cartridge pleats and rolled pleats. 

Cartridge pleats specifically refer to a type of pleating technique where the fabric is rolled and gathered into small cylindrical shapes, resembling cartridges or bullets. These pleats are often arranged in a series along a straight line, either horizontally or vertically, creating a structured and gathered appearance. 

Rolled pleats, on the other hand, are a more general term that encompasses a range of pleating techniques where fabric is rolled or folded to create folds and texture. 

Other variations of pleats are the inverted and sunburst pleats. Inverted pleats open outward from a central point, creating a flared effect. Meanwhile, sunburst pleats radiate outward from a central point, resembling the rays of the sun. 

There are also unique types of pleats like the Fortuny pleats. These refer to a specific type of pleating technique that takes its name from Mariano Fortuny, a Spanish-Italian fashion designer and artist who gained prominence in the early 20th century. Fortuny is renowned for his innovative contributions to the world of fashion, and one of his notable creations is the Fortuny pleat. These pleats are done on the fabric level, not in the sewing process.

Another unique pleat is the honeycomb pleat, also known as cellular or hexagonal pleats. They are a distinctive pleating pattern that resembles the structure of a honeycomb. This pleating style creates a visually striking and geometric texture in fabric. 

Moving on, let’s talk about sizing and spacing. The key to a perfect pleat lies in getting the dimensions right. Pleats should be deep enough to maintain their fold so they do not fully open up. While tucks tend to be smaller and not so deep for more of a design element.

Where do you typically put pleats in a garment? The answer varies. Watch the video to understand how pleats are used not only for achieving different silhouettes, but also in achieving a nice fit. 

Ready to practice drawing pleats? Watch and practice the step-by-step video where we follow The Fashion Design Book instructions together. You’re going to find that it’s a lot of fun to draw pleats and tucks!

To make pleats look realistic and consistent, here are some tips: pay attention to detail, observe how fabric drapes, and practice, practice, practice. Soon, your drawings will showcase expertly crafted fabric folds that are sure to express the design aesthetic you desire.