Designing for Fit: How to Optimize Garment Fit with Design Lines

Today, let’s chat about something crucial in the world of garment creation – design lines. If you’re not familiar with these, I’m here to break it down for you.

As you watch today’s video, I want you to practice these sewing pattern manipulation techniques with me. Download your free practice mini-slopers and do these exercises with me. Understanding these techniques will make you a stronger designer.

First off, what exactly is a design line? Well, it’s essentially a seam in your garment. What most designers don’t realize, though is that these lines play a significant role in optimizing the fit. 

Before we dive deep, I recommend checking out my previous video on patternmaking terminology. It will lay a foundation for what we’re about to explore in this video above.

Design lines come into play when you want to enhance the fit of your garment or create a distinctive design aesthetic. Design lines can be added to use different fabrics or create color blocking. 

The Fashion Design Book does not feature many design lines for a reason. I’ve specifically left out many design lines so that you can add your own. And if there are design lines, feel free to move them as you would like!

One tip to keep in mind is that design lines work wonders when they cross through the points of darts on a sloper. This helps optimize the overall fit of your creation. This concept is shown best through the video explanation, so make sure you tune into the video for this part. This is something every designer should consider!

Let’s talk about some common design lines used in garment construction. Have you ever heard of princess seams? This is the perfect example of how a design line is used to optimize the fit of the garment. I’ll walk you through a quick tutorial on how to achieve these design lines through a slash and close tutorial. Do this process with me with the free mini-sloper found you can download through the form below.

Additionally, we’ll explore yokes in tops and pants, and I’ll guide you through the process of creating these sewing patterns so that you can enhance your understanding of these important design features that optimize the fit.

Midriff design lines are another fantastic option to slash and close darts to create a beautifully shaped pattern that fits well. 

Now, it’s essential to understand that woven and knit garments differ when it comes to design lines. Knit fabrics often require fewer darts since the fabric’s stretch acts as a dart over protruding areas.

Guess what!? You don’t have to rely solely on design lines and darts. Pleats, tucks, shirring, gathering, and smocking – these techniques can also work wonders in improving the fit of your garments.

However, design lines, if not used correctly, can detract from the overall fit or aesthetic of your creation. In the video, I share some examples to help you avoid common pitfalls.

In a nutshell, understanding and mastering design lines is like unlocking a whole new level of creativity in the world of fashion. So, grab your sketchbook, experiment with those lines, and let your designs stand out! 

Don’t forget to grab your free mini-slopers through the form below so that you can practice making more design lines. Enjoy the process of designing and trialing new ideas with these mini-slopers!