Patternmaking Vocabulary 101: What You Need to Know as a Designer

Today, I’m diving into the world of patternmaking, breaking down the key terms and techniques that every designer should know. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to brush up on your skills, I’ve got you covered.

Before we jump in, download the great free worksheet that’s packed with all the terms I’ll be going through in the video above. Just check out the sign up form below to get it. Then print it, and you can follow along and take notes as we go.

Let’s start with a fundamental piece of patternmaking – the sloper. You might be wondering, what on earth is a sloper? Well, it’s like a template or basic pattern for your design, serving as the foundation for various clothing items like pants, blouses, blazers, and jackets. Think of it as the starting point for designing clothing.

Everytime you design something, to create the sewing pattern, you’ll go from a sloper. You can use design tape to experiment with different styles and shapes.

What’s a bodice? That’s a term for the upper part of a dress or a blouse. So, when you’re working with slopers, you’re basically shaping the foundation garment from which you design.

And here’s a little tip – for durability, many designers copy their slopers onto oaktag paper (cardboard). It’s like giving your design a sturdy backbone!

Moving on to terms found on patterns – Grainline, notches, seam allowances, bias, and straight grain may sound like a patternmaking secret code, but they’re crucial elements that guide you through the sewing process. Watch the video to understand all of these details.

Now, let’s talk fit. Every designer’s goal is to create a garment that fits perfectly. To achieve that, you need to master pattern adjustments. Think of it as tailoring your design to hug the curves and lines of the body. It’s all about making the garment uniquely yours.

Dart manipulation is another nifty technique. Picture this – you’ve got a dart, and you want to play around with it to achieve a perfect fit. It’s like sculpting your garment to follow the contours of the body, ensuring it looks and feels just right.

Ever heard of slash-and-spread? This technique not only affects the silhouette but also comes in handy for pattern corrections. Need a bit more room in the bust or bicep area? Slash-and-spread is your go-to move. Slashing and spreading makes the pattern bigger in those areas where you spread the pattern apart.

And for those times when you need to do the opposite, there’s slash-and-close. This technique is all about precision, especially when you’re tackling tricky fitting topics.

So there you have it – a crash course in patternmaking vocabulary. From slopers to darts and everything in between, these terms and techniques are the building blocks of your design journey.

Don’t forget to grab your copy of the Patternmaking Vocabulary 101 below to help you familiarize with other terms as you draft your own patterns!

I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s video. I’ll see you in the next one!